Feluccas and floating the Nile has got to be one of the best parts of my trip yet it was the part I dreaded the most. Why? Because traditionally I hate cruises (think Sydney Harbour cruises). I can't get off when I'm done or bored. This experience instead became a meditative blessing. Peaceful, using the wind to move along or against the currents, eating gourmet food on board made by our huge, balding, smoking Egyptian cook.
Not all went smoothly as I had the pleasure of sleeping next to our chef on deck and he at times sounded like a bull elephant with asthma when he snored. Even my deeply inserted ear plugs couldn't drown him out but it was countered by the crisp morning day light of sunrise and nature's bird sounds so I forgave him and his loose pallet.
One night was spent in a Nubian homestay. A huge room greeted us that was laid out with mattresses and sheets and a massive air con unit again set to "freeze". If there were more than curtains on the arched doors, they could have set the temperature lower.
Again, we had a great meal laid out for us. One of the children who knew 4 languages and wanted to be a doctor when she grew up took us for a tour around the village. She proudly showed us her house which consisted of a courtyard, a two roomed building (4 family members slept in one room and the other was used for storage). The kitchen was in a separate building in the courtyard and for very hot nights there were 2 double beds in the middle of the courtyard. This reminded me of my previous African trip where the people had nothing but they were always happy because they had family and community. I again witnessed how the older children looked after the younger children regardless of whether they were related or not.
One more day on the felucca and we arrive at the disembarking point to head to Luxor. Bus is slightly bigger than an After Dinner Mint box but then again the trip to Luxor is no more than 2 hours. We stop for a toilet break and are fleeced for 2 drinks for 30LE. We have been paying 5LE for cans everywhere else. When I return the drinks, the guy brings his price down to 15LE. Very nice of him.
At this point in time, I need to make a comment about toilets. Again with the bowel movements!! I thought I had budgeted quite well for Egypt but I hadn't counted on paying for using toilets and toilet paper EVERYWHERE!!! Usually 1LE per visit, at one point the guy wanted us to pay 2LE each for a water logged floor, no lights and no paper. We finally rebelled and gave him 1LE each and a serve of what we expected for our money. I felt I needed to shower in antibacterial hand wash but I knew in my heart of hearts that there was no wash currently available that would rid me of the germs I collected with each toilet stop. I would have to wait until the 22nd century to see such a miracle product. Another word of advice for our Arabic friends. Westerners have a strange habit of wiping their bottoms after toilet visits. Humour us, we need the paper!!
Luxor was great as was the Valley of the Kings, the Colossi of Memnon and Karnak temple. Again, temperatures soared and we did everything we could to not expire during the days. Our tours were organised for early morning so we could be back in our hotel before the real heat of the day hit. But regardless of what time of day it was, we expended rivers of sweat each day. The horse and cart rides saved our souls as we took those back to our hotel in the afternoons.
Our tour guide in Luxor was knowledgeable and again, we went to his house for a meal and a shop from his collection of jewelry (it seems traditional to return a meal with hard earned cash!). I have to say the biggest highlight of this leg was visiting Animal Care Egypt which was an organisation that educated Egyptians about the proper care of their pets and work animals. There were horses and donkeys and cats and dogs galore there. The highlight was the baby donkey that followed us everywhere. It came to the centre as an orphan and they decided to keep it and use as a teaching tool in classrooms to show children how to check the teeth, legs, back etc of their own donkeys. I was happy to donate there.
WE left for Cairo the next day and the molasses of dread returned.
Chat soon
Cheers!
Tina x
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