Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Egypt Highlights and Summary: 5 Last Days including Sinai.

Not going to even bother with the day in Cairo. Noise, smells, pollution, noise, haggling, noise and my shoulders making their way up to my ear lobes from stress! :-)

We managed to go the largest mosque and the Coptic area which were both interesting but in truth, my mind was firmly on the 7 hour trip the following day to Sinai and languishing in the hills and on the beaches of Egypt.

The next day, we dutifully left early in the morning.. I think we managed to get away by 8am. The drive was uneventful and was mainly filled with word games (our favourite was naming famous people in turn and the next name had to begin with the initial of the previous celebrity's surname...) At least it wasn't "I Spy"... that would have been limited to something beginning with 'S' for the entire 7 hours!!! We also spent time playing card games. The group favourite here was Kings and Arseholes. Don't ask!!!

A few smelly toilet breaks along the way and we managed to get to the Hotel for our lunch (around 1:30). That was all nice and civilized except for the rock that had found its way from the buffet's bowl of lentils onto my plate and into my mouth! My tooth is still reverberating as I recall the crunch. And what did I get in return for pointing out the Ayres Rock sitting on my plate to the head chef?? A free coffee thank you very much!

We had a bit of a rest after lunch and got ready to climb Mt Sinai. The usual way was the camel way. The other typical route was the Steps all the way to the top. Our guide having done the area often told us about the way of the 40 Martyrers which took you around the back of the mountain and wound its way up to the last 900 steps. Sure we all said. Let's be Intrepid travelers!

This area was where we first encountered the Bedouins. They were installed as guardians of the Monks and St Katherine the Monastery. Initially, in the beginning of Christianity, they were christian converts but slowly over the ages had become Muslim so it was kind of funny to have a Muslim Bedouin guide called Moses. He was shy, sweet and had a nice face with a wide smile. I developed a bit of crush which wasn't hard to do following a butt that had climbed the mountain around 3 times a week for the last 10 years! Am I going to hell???

The climb was tough and included an over-stay at a Bedouin village situated along the way (more tea; more shopping) so I ended up missing the actual sunset by a whisker but it was still lovely at the top. Peaceful, colourful, tranquil. Our "team" sat up there and drank in the achievement before Jo and I decided to head back down the stairs before night time fell. My torch was totally shite and I wanted to be down the most treacherous part before I had to rely on the useless equipment.

We got down around 9pm and helped along by a long, hot shower, pain killers and anti inflams, I slept like a baby till morning.

The next day was visiting the actual Monastery. Being Greek Orthodox and being named after that particular saint, I thought I'd be a shoo in to see the vaults, tombs and other secret things they have there. Ha, silly me! I joined the rest of the cattle being herded around the place. Straight into St Katherine's chapel and back out again in a blink of an eye. When I realised I was heading for the exit without any special treatment I hit the breaks causing a bit of a bank up behind me. I fought my way to the nearest Bedouin security officer dragging two fellow travellers with me (thanks for the back up Jo and Angela!) There I negotiated, chatted, became indignant, timid and finally insistent that I speak to one of the brothers of the monastery before I leave. You have to go out! But I'm Greek Orthodox!!! Hmmm... I could tell that he knew that was a problem. Three guards later (one crankier than the other two) I and my two friends were swept back against the tide to meet the Brother on the other side of the barricade.

I introduced myself and chatted about the place, my pilgrimage and the offerings I needed to leave at the church. To my delight, he took my icons and told me they would be placed in St Katherine's tomb. He also gave me 4 silver rings inscribed with St Katherine's name and some olive oil from the burners in the tomb. Right now, I will declare upfront that I am not a religious person, but I have to admit, I acted like a teenager meeting their pop-idol when I received these gifts from the Brother. I recall this now with much amusement. Think lapsed Catholic meeting Pope. My Greekness also got us into the Museum for free where Christian scriptures and icons from as far back as the 5th Century are kept. Apparently, this place is second only to the Vatican with regards to holding early Christian records and writings.

I left that place with a mix of serenity and excitement. I won't say I found religion but I experienced a great sense of history and reverence of the place.

The day just got better from there by meeting a lovely spruker whom we didn't argue with (must have still been experiencing a serenity glow from the monastery) and bought lots of nice stuff. He called us angelic (cynically, he may have just wanted a sale...) which I took as a reflection of the effect of my visit to Mt Sinai.

We soon after piled back into the bus and headed to the beach resort area on the Red Sea. Our beach huts were called Sawa camp and it was 2 more relaxing days of beach, water, eating, lounging with a late afternoon game of beach volleyball with fellow guests and backgammon. The resort is frequented by Israelis who's border is nearby and it became the norm that when the net went up, we all just automatically congregated to play an international game of volleyball. Hand slapping and goading soon took hold as high stakes and reputations were on the line. I thought Aussies were competitive but I wasn't a patch on the Israeli guy and his wife who were on my team. All in vain though. We kept losing very close games.

This was a perfect wind down from a hectic and hot trip to Egypt. The next day we went back to Cairo and whilst on the road, continued all our favourite travel games. We ended the trip with a group dinner, followed by a shared apple shisha and recalling our experiences.

Egypt was a different experience; full of highs and lows. Once the Government there installs a mute button on the population of sprukers and tourist vultures, I would gladly return to revisit my favourite experiences.

Cheers!

Egypt Highlights and Summary: Part 2

Feluccas and floating the Nile has got to be one of the best parts of my trip yet it was the part I dreaded the most. Why? Because traditionally I hate cruises (think Sydney Harbour cruises). I can't get off when I'm done or bored. This experience instead became a meditative blessing. Peaceful, using the wind to move along or against the currents, eating gourmet food on board made by our huge, balding, smoking Egyptian cook.

Not all went smoothly as I had the pleasure of sleeping next to our chef on deck and he at times sounded like a bull elephant with asthma when he snored. Even my deeply inserted ear plugs couldn't drown him out but it was countered by the crisp morning day light of sunrise and nature's bird sounds so I forgave him and his loose pallet.

One night was spent in a Nubian homestay. A huge room greeted us that was laid out with mattresses and sheets and a massive air con unit again set to "freeze". If there were more than curtains on the arched doors, they could have set the temperature lower.

Again, we had a great meal laid out for us. One of the children who knew 4 languages and wanted to be a doctor when she grew up took us for a tour around the village. She proudly showed us her house which consisted of a courtyard, a two roomed building (4 family members slept in one room and the other was used for storage). The kitchen was in a separate building in the courtyard and for very hot nights there were 2 double beds in the middle of the courtyard. This reminded me of my previous African trip where the people had nothing but they were always happy because they had family and community. I again witnessed how the older children looked after the younger children regardless of whether they were related or not.

One more day on the felucca and we arrive at the disembarking point to head to Luxor. Bus is slightly bigger than an After Dinner Mint box but then again the trip to Luxor is no more than 2 hours. We stop for a toilet break and are fleeced for 2 drinks for 30LE. We have been paying 5LE for cans everywhere else. When I return the drinks, the guy brings his price down to 15LE. Very nice of him.

At this point in time, I need to make a comment about toilets. Again with the bowel movements!! I thought I had budgeted quite well for Egypt but I hadn't counted on paying for using toilets and toilet paper EVERYWHERE!!! Usually 1LE per visit, at one point the guy wanted us to pay 2LE each for a water logged floor, no lights and no paper. We finally rebelled and gave him 1LE each and a serve of what we expected for our money. I felt I needed to shower in antibacterial hand wash but I knew in my heart of hearts that there was no wash currently available that would rid me of the germs I collected with each toilet stop. I would have to wait until the 22nd century to see such a miracle product. Another word of advice for our Arabic friends. Westerners have a strange habit of wiping their bottoms after toilet visits. Humour us, we need the paper!!

Luxor was great as was the Valley of the Kings, the Colossi of Memnon and Karnak temple. Again, temperatures soared and we did everything we could to not expire during the days. Our tours were organised for early morning so we could be back in our hotel before the real heat of the day hit. But regardless of what time of day it was, we expended rivers of sweat each day. The horse and cart rides saved our souls as we took those back to our hotel in the afternoons.

Our tour guide in Luxor was knowledgeable and again, we went to his house for a meal and a shop from his collection of jewelry (it seems traditional to return a meal with hard earned cash!). I have to say the biggest highlight of this leg was visiting Animal Care Egypt which was an organisation that educated Egyptians about the proper care of their pets and work animals. There were horses and donkeys and cats and dogs galore there. The highlight was the baby donkey that followed us everywhere. It came to the centre as an orphan and they decided to keep it and use as a teaching tool in classrooms to show children how to check the teeth, legs, back etc of their own donkeys. I was happy to donate there.

WE left for Cairo the next day and the molasses of dread returned.

Chat soon

Cheers!
Tina x

Egypt Summary and Highlights: Part 1

We spent the last night together reminiscing our personal highlights as well as lowlights of Egypt when we finally returned to Cairo.

I know I've been purposely slack about the internet stuff but I've decided to go through my itinerary and make some comments about each place we visited.

It should be no surprise to those who know me that I hated Cairo! Too noisy, too dirty, Disorganised Kaos (is it possible to be more disorganised than Chaos?) Tourist traps and hawkers charging you more than triple what the locals pay. Every time we headed back to Cairo during our trip, I could feel the dread wash over me like molasses. Thick and sticky. It didn't help that the hotel we kept returning to was central but in a really horrible part of town even though it was close to the Nile. There were piles of loose garbage just sitting on the street rotting and we had to walk past it every day to go get some water or something to eat. No wonder I hardly ate anything or when I did, I could feel the rumbling tum start protesting at the abuse I was dishing out to it.

Giza's highlight was spotting the Sphynx through the bus window and I froze in that startled rabbit kind of way. Finally seeing something in the flesh that I had been wanting to visit for many years was a great moment for me and all the noises, smells and weariness seemed to disappear in a split second. It seemed that I was the only one there and we said a silent hello to each other. I wished I could re-create that moment when all the noise returned at a seemingly louder volume.

Camel rides are overrated. Talk about a sore bum, back and inner thighs after only 10 minutes ride from the look out to the third pyramid. Let's not mention the 5698 requests for a tip from my 15 y.o. camel herder in that short 10 minutes. Far out... I was constantly looking for the off switch on every Egyptian I met.

The overnight train to Aswan saw me on the upper bunk, freezing me face off (I was perfectly lined up with the air con vent that seemed to be set to Cryogenic). The new morning saw us eating breakfast in our private cabin. When I pulled the blinds open to find out why the train had stopped, I saw we were at a station. During mid chew of bread and marmalade (time stood still again but for all the wrong reasons), I watched a man on the opposite platform jump onto the tracks, pulled up his traditional dress and do a huge crap on the railway tracks. Dear readers, you do not know the meaning of a "dry reach" until you have mistakenly watched a man poohing whilst you are attempting to nourish yourself.

Aswan, hot as hell (if there is a hell) but stunning. Our hotel overlooked the Nile and I loved the greenery of the river bank. Our room was on the upper levels and I could see the Nile wind its way to the distant horizon.

We went to a Nubian village where we were greeted with traditional music and children dancing. The little buggers asked us for baksheesh (tips) for dancing with us. Damn cheek! The meal was delicious and after some shopping for home made traditional loose change bags and necklaces and Arabic scarves, we returned to our hotel.

Our free day saw some of us decide to go to Abu Simbel. So, we set our alarms for 3:15am to be ready by 4am. Our bus collected us at 4:15. Did I say bus? Once everyone was seated, it took on an appearance of humans trying to travel in an After Dinner Mints packet. Not a huge problem unless you are travelling 3 hours in the searing heat with your knees up around your larynx. Was it worth it? Abu Simbel was amazing, stunning, huge, beautiful but I would have said it was worth it if we were travelling on a real bus... not in a chocolate box.

We arrived back to Aswan around 2pm and I took the rest of the day off to reacquaint my legs back into the straight position.

End of Day 5. Yes, there are 10 more days of the trip left! God Help Me!

Thanks for tuning in

Chat soon

Tina x

Monday, August 10, 2009

Leaving Luxor

Its been an interesting few days with loads to do yet tonnes of time to chill out.

The constant noise and horns tooting is becoming tiresome as is the unwanted attention of the local men but the best choice is to ignore, ignore, ignore.

We've been to The Valley of the Kings and visited 3 tombs. for extra payment, some of us went into Rammasees VI tomb and Tutankaman's tomb which still has his mummy in it.

I was amazed at the colour that still exists in these places on the walls and ceilings. The carvings are brilliant and the stories behind them are just as fascinating.

Today was karnak temple. Huge and just as amazing for different reasons. Tonight we leave for Cairo via overnight train.

Life is noisy but good.

Chat soon

Cheers!
tina x

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Luxor and the Feluka

Just a list of words and phrases today.

1. Hot, hot, hot
2. Nubian village of lilac, burnt orange and sky blue colours full of lively children wanting to own us
3. Communal sleeping room for our group with sandy courtyard, arch doorways, lace curtains and air conditioning unit.
4. Waking up with the rising sun and sipping sweet Egyptian tea in the sandy courtyard whilst the children buried their glasses in the sand to keep their milky tea warm.
5. Sunset walk to the nearest hill to see the colours come alive
6. Sailing up the Nile and dipping feet into the cool water on every second tack.
7. Sunburnt knees!!! 8-\
8. Egyptian tea with one sugar
9. Sandy river banks for a stop over and a swim... or if you prefer, sipping tea in the shade of the feluka whilst standing waist deep in the Nile
10. Silly word games. 10 Push ups for each time you say feluka, hot, water, mine or Intrepid. Its been my day off the game since Tuesday.
11. Digging our own toilet and erecting a chest height curtain around it! :-(
12. Sleeping on the feluka
13. Arrive in Luxor

Chat soon

Cheers
Tina x

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

The Original Crazy Taxi.

Well, I am writing this so that indicates that I have survived my first full day in Egypt.

We organised through Tommy (see previous blog) a day trip to Saqqarah. Its the necropolis close to Cairo and has the first pyramid ever built; the Step Pyramid but I am getting ahead of myself.

We turn up to Tommy's office and confirm that we want to go to Saqqarah.. No worries he says. He is up on all the Aussie lingo to make us feel at home.

So off we go. Its was like pressing the Start button on "Crazy Taxi: The Game" Wisdom or a kindly, saintly voice advised both of us (Jo and me) to sit in the back seat. What happened in the next 20 mins must have scored us top points and bonuses as our driver deftly dodged donkeys, dogs, pedestrians (we noticed a distinct lack of traffic lights... EVERYWHERE), cars, motor cycles and everything else that found its way onto the bitumen. Calling them roads here is being totally unkind to dirt tracks back home.

We see a black and white car whizz from left to right in front of us, and then dodge it again as it abruptly stops for someone who seems hell bent on crossing the road. Our taxi picks up more speed and begins to perform the same manouvres. Left to right in front of the bus, then right to left to dodge the donkey, hit the brakes to swerve around the pedestrians (women and children) then ecselerates to make it around a truck before it swerves in front of us to avoid a car. I would have thought the constant yelling, squealing and stream of "Oh Nos" coming from his back seat may have alerted him to our distress. He turns and tells us that we don't need seat belts in the back seat (they are firmly locked into place) only in the front. 8-/

On the way to Saqqarah, he decides that we need to stop at a Papyrus Shop, a jewely shop, a carpet shop and a restaurant... hmmm.. Jo and I look at each other thinking the other has requested this. No, we haven't, I think the shop owners must belong to Tommy in some way shape or form!!

We dutifully go into each shop, look around and walk out. Thank you for the lovely stop over... can we go to Saqqarah now. Of course he says as he pulls into the next shop!

To cut a long story short, we actually did get to Saqqarah in the end, saw the Step Pyramid, got fleeced by some dude that put he filthy scarf on my head for a photo opportunity (all I could think of was the cooties that I was about to catch), took us around the inside of a pyramid pointing at a fish and saying, look fish! Our unofficial tour guide took 5LE off us before letting us out. Live and learn.

Rating for that trip: 8/10.

It was a really good day!

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Cairo... but too late to care!

Hi folks,

I made it to Cairo this afternoon and at the moment it's just gone 11pm. We've been hijacked by a friendly local (Tommy) who has taken us to every shop known to his immediate family to try and sell us something. I've so far successfully been able to fob him off but my resolve is waning. He is waiting at the coffee shop next door to buy us a mango juice after we've finished on the internet (I've met Jo from NZ who is on the same tour). Am currently trying to work out how to sneak past him so I can go to my hotel room and sleep. The state of the hotel is another story!!!

Chat later

Cheers
Tina xx