Thursday, December 8, 2011

Reflection


So today I am dealing with peak hour commutes, emails, phone calls, project schedules, meetings, grey skies, artificial air and filtered light through tinted windows.  It all pales into the background when my mind wanders back to the brilliance of the Galapagos Islands, the sparkle in the eyes of the Peruvian people and the vivid coloured clothes worn by so many.  Western designers please take note: be more adventurous next season and forget solid colours of black, grey, baby-pooh brown and egg-shell cream. 

I wanted to reflect on some of the stuff that stuck in my head and as hinted at above,the colour of the places we visited.  Don’t get me wrong; let me tell you there were plenty of dust-bowl landscapes to see at the altitudes we found ourselves in.  When I talk of colour, it’s not just the physical colour of the landscapes, buildings and clothes but also the energy and attitude of the people that bought colour to the places we visited.  This morning there were five of us in the lift and no one said a word, not a good morning, not a hello.  That would be unheard of in Peru and the other countries we visited in South America!  Everyone had a “hello” ready to be unleashed.  Even the guy, sitting having his shoes shined as I walked past, greeted me with an enthusiastic “Buenos dias!”.

That’s the type of colour I’m talking about. It’s the connection (split second or otherwise) with the others that bought the colour into my life while I was traveling and for that reason, I will always speak fondly of the wonderful people of Peru and the Galapagos Islands whenever I travel back there in my imagination.

Thanks for stopping by and visiting my blog whilst I was traveling.  Am busy planning my next trip so stay tuned!
Cyas

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Galapagos... at last!

Today as I was taking a walk along my local beach back home, I sat and watched the choppy waves break on the shore and my thoughts went back to the Galapagos islands and the wonderful experience of being so close to the animals who showed no fear of humans.

I've decided my ideal holiday must contain a mix of local people, culture and history as well as nature and animals which is why I loved East Africa so much and it remains my bestest ever holiday.

This combined trip to Peru, Bolivia and Galapagos has become my second all time favourite trip for the same reasons.

So onto the Galapagos or more specifically, Baltra Island, Santa Cruz island and finally the boat that took us around to many more of the islands. Baltra is where they have built the airport and is totally uninhabited.  So to get to our final destination of the cruise boat from our hotel in Quito, we took a bus to Quito's national airport, a plane for the 2 hour flight to Baltra Island, a courtesy bus to the ferry, a ferry across to Santa Cruz island, a 45mins bus trip south to Port Ayorta and finally a rubber dinghy onto our boat!  That day was definitely our version of Planes, Trains and Automobiles for sure!

Baltra Island on the right and Santa Cruz on the left


We had a couple of hours to explore Santa Cruz and Port Ayorta before our cruise started so we made our way to the Charles Darwin Research Centre but in fairness, our first encounter with Galapagos wildlife was on the way when we saw a land turtle on the side of the road eating.


Having a road side snack


Faces only mothers could love - part 1

Faces, mothers, love - part 2

you know the drill - part 3


Our boat was a 16 berth smaller boat and our cabin was minute so my roomie and I had to strategically position ourselves to get to and from the bathroom if we were in the cabin at the same time.  At this point I want to make a point.  Our boat was probably too small.  There are massive boats with 100 people on them.  That would be far too big.  If you are planning a trip, pick something in between.. maybe capable of carrying 25-30.  That way, you have room on board and you are not battling with a tonne of other people when being transported on and off the islands.

Yes, the water in the harbour REALLY is that clean and blue

First marine iguana spotted making its way past our moored boat


The islands and animal encounters were stunning.  We did wet and dry landings.  We snorkeled.  We walked on red sand, black sand, yellow sand, white powdery sand, black rocks, saw bright red plants, totally bare islands and lush green ones.  The variety of landscapes from island to island is truly amazing.

nesting oyster catcher that we nearly stepped on... and it didn't move

snorkeling discovery

amazing starfish

do not disturb

amazing crabs

that's right, a blue footed boobie.

fly catcher

even our guide got excited at having spotted a red breasted fly catcher

this frigate bird hitched a on our boat for a while

another boobie

we had to step over these Galapagos Sharks to get back on board our boat

pelicans safely on our rubber dinghy to avoid the sharks

do not disturb... am eating!


The animals were equally amazing. It seemed they had no fear.  We walked right by seals, crabs, birds, turtles, iguanas and the biggest reaction from the animals seemed to be a casual "who you lookin' at?" from each species.  In the water there were amazing star fish and tropicals and we even had visits from the Galapagos sharks which was interesting because they were between us in the rubber dinghy and our boat.  That was an interesting boarding.

The islands we visited were Rabida, Santiago, Bartolome, Sombrero Chino and North Seymour.


The Darwin - our boat

hiking around the islands


sunning himself on our path


waiting to board our boat again

We cruised for 3 nights and at the end of it, I changed my itinerary to stay an extra 3 days on Santa Cruz rather than return to Quito with the group.  The initial plan was to do day cruises but to tell you the truth, I'm really not a seafarer and being doped up to the eyeballs to make it through the 3 nights without loosing any dinner or lunch made me feel I needed to detox on land... which I noted was swaying for the first day before I got my land legs again.

I walked around the town, went back  to the Darwin Research centre, shopped and made it to Tortuga Bay where there is a turtle santuary... they come on land and lay eggs on the beach in the sand dunes so there is heaps to do on land too.  I even went to the local fish market to watch the workers battle the pelicans for the catch of the day.  Btw... that IS a seal patiently lying at the guys feet.

fish market with wildlife

Folks, this was another dream come true for me and I can't recommend The Galapagos highly enough.  There are gasps around every corner from the Galapagos hawk the flew over to us and just sat within a couple of metres checking our or group, to a bunch of sea turtles sitting at the water's edge having a rest to the showy frigate bird that didn't seem to mind becoming our groups pin-up bird.

Female Sea turtle having a rest

Galapagos Hawk

Frigate bird showing off for the girls

Galapagos Islands ROCK!

Cheers!

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Quito for a day or two

Organised a taxi for 5am to catch my TACA flight to Lima and then onto Quito.

I am missing the Peru tour group folks and the many laughs we had together so I was happy to fly out of La Paz and move on as well.  In a strange way, it kind of relieved the feeling of being abandoned!  Flying into Quito was amazing as the plane flies in between hills to line up the runway.





I have to admit that by now, my focus is the Galapagos islands so I am not in too much of a mood to explore and find out about Quito.  Its probably to my detriment but its just the way I feel.  The hotel I've been booked into is the San Francisco and it is in Old Town which is the tourist part of town.  It is VERY ordinary... actually, a less than ordinary hotel but again, I am thinking, only two nights and I'm in the Galapagos.

Typical street in old town with of course, Christ/Angel on the Hill


I settle in by 5pm which means its been another long day traveling and I just have enough energy to go to the supermarket next door, get some snacks and sleep.  Tomorrow, I meet the rest of the group before we head off to Santa Cruz island and the boat.


The next day, I walk around old town, feel somewhat uncomfortable with regards to personal safety yet find a square where there are some live bands playing as part of a festival.  I find a wall to lean onto... less options for pick pockets to approach... and stay of listen to some great music.  I'm there for a couple of hours until a vendor decides to push me aside and set up exactly where I was standing.  Okay.  Excuse me for being in your way!


I decide to leave when she starts slapping her little toddler. It was either that or be the centre of an international diplomatic incident when I'd made up my mind to slap the mother back on her child's behalf. During my walk around old town, I find this absolutely massive Basilica built on top of the hill and wonder into an open door at street level.  No one told me it was the entrance to the underground cemetery.  People are stack in tombs anywhere up to five rows high in the walls.  I really didn't hang around too long to make sure.  I pitied the poor soul buried/entombed right at the front door.  He must not get any rest whatsoever with tourists like me just stumbling in on open days.



Tonight I met my roomie Jessica who tells me about having her camera snatched from her hands as she was framing a picture to take.  Did I mention that I REALLY need to get to the Galapagos?

We leave tomorrow early in the morning.  Can't wait.

Cheers!