Bolivia: Tiwanaku and La Paz

Yesterday we did the border crossing into Bolivia and that was totally interesting; especially so when your tour leader crosses himself when we actually arrive.  What wasn't he telling us???  Maybe it was (again) the two near misses with oncoming traffic and he was perched in the middle of the front bench seat with no seat belt on. Maybe that was it.

We left Peru behind and walked across the bridge that crossed the river border.  Passports, forms, stamps, visas and we are in.  We had to pretend to not recognise our Peruvian tour leader and hang out with a new Bolivian stand-in until all official papers were done, When we were out of ear shot of border control, we were all smiles and hellos again!

One of our first stops in Bolivia was Tiwanaku where we explored some ruins that dated back to 900BC.  It was fascinating hearing about the people and their culture from back then.  It was slightly marred by the fact a gale was blowing and we were nearly blown back into Peru. I took pictures of the storm clouds and found out later that the winds were the tail end of a hurricane in the jungle just behind the Andes.

Tiwanaku buildings

Storm brewing over the Andes and into the Amazon

 I can´t say much about Bolivia to do it justice because I've only been in La Paz for 2 days and I´d hate to review or comment. The only thing I will say is this...

La Paz was actually founded in a more sensible, flatter part of Bolivia not far from the present site but during colonisation, the Spanish decided that it was better to move La Paz right onto the river that carried gold in it. Gold you could reach in and pick up from the water.  Today, La Paz in now built on the most unstable land formation I have ever seen. Think perching a city on the top of structures found in Monument Valley! During serious wet seasons, thousands of homes are washed away in mud slides. 

La Paz by day from the lookout

 

La Paz by night from our hotel rooftop

The pictures of La Paz are amazing but I can't help thinking, what the hell were the Spaniards thinking all those centuries ago.
We've been to some look outs and to Moon Valley were the landscape is truly amazing. 

Moon valley landscape

During the same city tour we went to the Witch's Market and were acquainted with not only the herbal remedies and medicines but also the dried whole alpaca baby foetus bought and used during traditional Quechuan ceremonies.

The offerings of sweets and foetus to Pachamama (Mother Earth)

Street protest right outside the hotel where they were letting off fireworks

Were we are living, the streets are up and down... so altitude keeps me walking slowly or not at all.  I do wish I had more time to explore but my focus is Galapagos in 2 days times.

Can you also believe that Tim the New Zealander turned up in the same cafe I was sitting in La Paz again?  In a city with a population of millions, what would be the chance of that?

See you in The Galapagos!!

Puno and Reed Islands

The road trip to Puno was interesting.

Not best in show... but still damn cute!

We ended up having the Muppet "The Count" as our tour guide for nine hours..!!  Ah, Ah, Ah, Ah.  Please sit down, I need to count.  Not only did he sound like The Count, he looked like The Count and had the same mannerisms.  I will never forget that drive.  Is it possible to have the giggles for nine hours???  Well, Moe and I proved you can, so much so that we couldn't look at each other without bursting into fits of laughter.  I think we were just delirious with fatigue and anything and everything set us off... including the near misses of our exceedingly swaying bus on the lumpiest road in Peru.

Some of the road we traveled on

Local transport.. not our bus!

You come into Puno overlooking Lake Titikaka and down in front of you, is the town of Puno (and the obligatory Christ on the Hill).  All roads lead to the Bay of Puno.  I have to say, after the nightmare stay at Machu Pichu, staying at our hotel in Puno was like staying at the Ritz Carlton.  It was wonderful.

View of Puno and Lake Titikaka

Enough of hotels, I have to tell you about the second biggest highlight of the trip... and so close to my Machu Pichu experience.  The reed islands of Puno and the people that live on them.  It is truly amazing.   To get there, we took the only transport available.  Tricky-shaws and boats.  The trickshaws were hilarious.  I (again) couldn't stop laughing when I came out of the hotel and saw everyone sitting patiently in their chosen vehicle with their huge-smiled drivers.  Then we proceeded to weave in and out of the traffic, across a railway line and down to the harbour to meet our boat.  Boarding was interesting. We had to jump in and out of four boats to reach ours at the end of the line.

Our transport to the harbour.  A race ensued (Vamos!!) and we came second!

Boats on the way to the reed islands

These people cut up water reed root stock into squares... tie them together, build massive islands, anchor them to the bottom of the lake close to the shore, lay down fresh water reeds like flooring, build up their water proof huts out of reeds, have veggie gardens from the old decomposed reeds and build raised outdoor kitchens to reduce the risk of fire and live on Lake Titikaka. 

Garden bed on the Reed Islands

It is truly amazing.  I have yet to meet a lovelier bunch of people on the trip.  So welcoming, warm, patient, generous with their time because goofy tourists have flat feet and can't walk on swaying, rocking  man-made islands. Some of the islands are big enough to hold 10 families!!  If anyone is thinking of holidaying in Peru, Puno and the Reed islands is a MUST!

Hand made reed boats

The colourful hat = single woman.

I bought one of his hand made boats (miniature of course!).

On our departure from their island home, they sang a traditional song in their language, a song in Spanish and Row, Row, Row Your Boat in English as they sang us on our way.   One thing about Peruvians is they definitely have an sense of humour.

Singing us off their island.

That night, it was Peru vs Ecuador int he World Cup qualifier match.  Well, we couldn´t let that pass, so Moe and I found ourselves the nearest, smallest, darkest, smokiest pub we could find to watch the game with other Peruvians.  Vamos Perrrrruuuuuuu, Vamos!  Too bad they lost 2-0.  What an amazing place to be in had they won.

Vamos Peru Vamos!!!

Anyway, I think I´ll wrap up my Peru trip here.  I loved it, the people are wonderful, the scenery is amazing, even with my limited Spanish (well, non-existent really) I never felt like I was an annoyance to the patient people of Peru. Of course there are negatives like excessive noise, diesel pollution in the towns with narrow streets and it is a developing country but then again, if I wanted to visit a country like home, I´d stay home!  The food was glorious and I think I ate quinoa in 20 different ways. 

Ceviche Trout

The (almost) most embarrassing moment may have been when I nearly ordered a plate of vaginas instead of a plate of trout... you see, its all in the pronunciation!

I want to put one thing out there.  Please, if you have the chance, put Peru on your list of places to visit.  Their traditions, their culture, their sense of humour, their rich history and their amazing landscape is something not to be missed.

Me gusta Perú!!

Cheers!

OMG.. It's Machu Pichu (and my birthday)

Last night (12Nov11) we decided to go VERY early to Machu Pichu by bus... for a number of reasons.  Avoid the afternoon crowds and see the site in the early morning to witness the morning mists rolling in and out through the surrounding mountains.  (I can´t believe that as I just wrote that I became quite emotional at recalling the memory and vision... what a sook!!)


Anyway, for the 13th Nov, we decided on breakfast at 5:30am to catch the 6am bus to the site.  In my morning haziness, I am wondering why everyone is at breakfast as some have decided on a later visit to the site.  As I am eating breakfast, a cake with one massive candle emerges from the kitchen and my fellow travelers start singing happy birthday.  I was totally overcome by surprise. It was so lovely that people I had only just met a few days ago would make the effort and Mario our tour leader would put into action covert plans to find a cake in this tiny town... plus I got a home made card from Karen that was signed by the group.  It was really quite touching.

Morning surprise.

So, after the surprises and well wishes, back to business of getting to the site. We walk to the bus stop, get on board and take the massive switch back road up to the Inca and Quechua peoples' Machu Pichu site.  This road is pretty daunting but after "Blind Corner" Juan whose driving habit of overtaking trucks on blind corners caused the group some concern, it wasn't as challenging as it might have otherwise been.

About to board

View of the mountains from the switch back road and bus trip up

Having just arrived at the site.

I need to cut a long story short because I want to share the highlights and keep some memories sacred and only for me. If I still used a film camera, I´m sure I would have taken 50 rolls of film in just the first 10 mins of setting eyes on this magical place. The rolling mists were like beach waves coming and going; hiding and revealing themselves through the surrounding mountains... almost like playing hide and seek with the viewer.  I sat up high with my legs dangling over the edge just in total silent awe of such beauty.  I am not surprised the Incas picked this site.  To be greeted each morning with such natural beauty would have been just as amazing back then.

Early morning mists in the mountains

Playing hide and seek

Amazing creations from both mother nature and humans

We had a good hour to ourselves before our official tour of Machu Pichu started so I just soaked it all up in silence.  Taking in every inch of detail of the place from where I had perched myself.  And the day just got better and better.  Our tour guide was wonderful, knowledgeable and kept the fact short and sweet. He didn't need to bang on about every inch of Machu Pichu as I have found some of our guides did at other sites and tours. He knew his stuff and knew it well.  We visited the Sun temple, the moon temple, the houses of the privileged as well as the workers, the stores and the sun dial that had the exact marking of the summer and winter solstice.  We saw the upright flat rock that had been precisely carved to imitate the massive mountain directly behind it. Gawd, this place just couldn't stop being amazing.  The lush green terraces were kept under control by the free labour of alpacas and llamas used as local gardeners. And always in view, the massive surrounding lush green mountains.

Bucket list item achieved

Later on in the morning, after our tour and after the morning mist had burnt off, I decide it was time to head towards the Sun Gate and see it from there.  It was a moderate uphill slog so the mantra "deep breaths, small steps" kept playing in my head to make it up there.  However, when I got to the first outpost half way up, I knew I didn't need to go any further. This was where I needed to be and I sat down at this spot. For a good 30-40 minutes I shard my present with this beautiful creation from the past.  Just me and him, in silence... plus the cute little lizardy, skinky thingy that just kept running around me and chased and caught a fly right up close to my leg.  That 30-40 minutes was my birthday present to me.

View from up high towards the Sun Gate

My little Peruvian totem animal.  Seemed to pop up everywhere

 After heading back down to rejoin the group for lunch, we found our tour leader Mario back in town and sat on the balcony at one of the many restaurants for lunch . I had my birthday cake placed in front of me and during lunch, Mario arranged for a Peruvian band to come upstairs and sing happy birthday in English and Spanish.  The table next to ours, full of intrepid hikers, also joined in the singing. It was a total hoot!!

Best three course birthday lunch ever.  Peruvian Beer, nachos and cake

Later in the day, we collected our belongings and headed for the train station but not before meeting up with Tim the New Zealander (long story from the night before, don´t ask), having a few farewell drinks, being shouted a strawberry and almond cocktail by the bar tender in honour of my birthday and finally dragging ourselves to the train.  It was late.. slow.. dark and some knobs had left their windows open so our train carriage soon filled up with the most massive moths I have ever seen.  Picture the waiter in our carriage swotting moths with his serving tray, most amusing! We finally got back to the Ollantaytambo to be greeted by "Blind Corner" Juan for the night drive back to Cuzco at 9pm... Let me tell you, that was an interesting drive. I finally crawled into bed around 12am.  What an amazing day, an amazing birthday and an amazing place!!

Best mojitos in town

THANK YOU PERU!!!!!!!

Forget the Hike! Take the train...

We returned to Ollantaytambo by bus today (12Nov2011) to catch the train to Machu Pichu.  Along the way, we stop and watch a guy making mud bricks from a landslide that occurred opposite his house.  The Peruvian Government workers obliged and pushed the landslide results off the road and near a location where he could make good use of what nature provided.  Very innovative these Peruvians!!

Making bricks from landslides.  Is this the Peruvian version of making lemonade from lemons?

Amazing produce.  I love this different coloured corn

Free range guinea pigs for dinner

Street in Ollantaytambo... our guide Mario

We board the Machu Pichu bound train and nothing could have prepared me for the wonderful scenery we went through. The train track goes right along the river bank through lush green forests and terraced fields.  The river (and this is pre-wet season) is storming along. I can't believe how beautiful the trip is... Listen up folks, you don´t need to walk there... catch the train!!

Train ride along the river bank.

We arrive at the little town who´s sole purpose is to shelter and feed the visitors and hikers.  Not much to do other than sleep, drink and eat as the whole place is hotels and restaurants. Mind you there is a beautiful river right through the middle of it and massive lush mountains surround it. There is even a train line for easy access to transport that goes right past the shops... (only kidding about easy access.. you still have to go to the train station!)

River through the town

All aboard.. or you can go shopping instead.. your choice!

For a town full of hotels, ours turns out to be a DISASTER!!!!  Talk about one star... or maybe even 1/2 star (and I am seriously being generous). My initial room has no external window but has a window and a full frosted glass wall facing the dining room.  Yes, that is right, I can open the window in the morning and order my coffee from the waiter standing at the buffet.  NOT!  Did I mention the stinky bathroom?  Why wouldn't it stink... THERE ARE NO WINDOWS!  So, I immediately request, no actually, demand a new room which is slightly better except for the missing glass in the window and the unobstructed view the hotel next door has right into my bathroom. *sigh*

Hotel that had a view into my room

The layout of the stairs in the hotel reminds me of a Salvador Dali painting but in 3D to the extent that as you open the door to some rooms you have an unexpected step down.  This caught one of our group off guard and she fell and hit the corner of furniture strategically placed for maximum impact.  GAWD!  Anyway, long story short, much blood, much calling for our guide, medics and hospital and 6 stitches later, she rejoins our group determined not to miss the Machu Pichu site tomorrow.  What a trooper!

As mentioned, tomorrow is the day... when I finally achieve a goal I have been dreaming about for ever (and I didn't have to work up a sweat)!

Cheers!

Just a quick Cusco summary

The next few days in Cusco are amazing. I wont go into too much detail so I´ll list the highlights.

1. A good night's sleep finally!!!  Trust me, at altitude, that IS a highlight.
2. Sacred valley with Juan 1 (local tour guide) and Juan 2 (bus driver) and to Ollantaytambo and return via Pisac.
3. In Pisac, we ate at the Blue Llama and were nearly blown off the balcony by the heavy winds.  
4. Instead of visiting Salt Pans and Moray by bus again, I stayed in town and found the locals´ food and wares market... better value and hanging with the locals.  Sat next to some art students and watched the world go by for ages. 
5. Bought some baby alpaca wool... Am planning at some stage in the future to knit something... maybe!
6. The market was full of interesting sights which included the meat section in aisle 12.  I've never seen the lips and nose of sheep for sale before.. nor a bucket full of frogs ready for the picking.  Beside the bucket they had skinned frogs legs ready to go.  Am not sure there was enough meat to warrant the effort though.  Wish I took a picture!
7. I notice Canadian Moe (Maureen) from our group walking the street and nearly burst a heart ventricle chasing her down to hang out for the day.
8. Caught up with the rest of the group when they returned for dinner at the only Irish Pub in the Square in Cusco.  

Tomorrow, we're off to Machu Pichu by train.

Cyas

Beautiful Cusco

Hi All,

Have been a little lapsed in posting on the blog.. but come on... am in Peru and have been seeing some amazing sites.  So, now that everyone else has gone and I have a day to myself before going to Ecuador tomorrow, I am going to post some stuff from the last few days.

So, this one is all about Cusco... Beautiful Cusco!

We boarded our flight and even though last night I though to myself,  "Hmmm...alcohol at altitude is not a good mix", after this LAN flight, I needed some hard core comfort.  This is the first time I have ever got off a plane shaking!  I mean, our tour leader Mario sitting behind me even said he was never flying again. Seriously, was this pilot on training wings or what??  I understand when you fly over mountains to expect some turbulence, but "what the??" on the two landings we had from Arequepa to Cusco approaching the runway sideways and up and down.  Holly molly!

Proving I had actually arrived in one piece

 

Part of the Main Square

I loved this blue colour that they used on their buildings

The town is beautiful.  We are still way up in altitude, its still tough to walk, talk and breath at the same time but nothing is going to stop us.  So after arriving and settling in its off to explore the town and the main square.  How beautiful.  I have to mention that each square we have seen has a massive Catholic cathedral (thanks to the Spanish colonisation) and beautiful Spanish influenced building with little wooden balconies surrounding the squares. I'm sorry I haven´t posted any photos, its just that subsequent computers don't have the equipment I need to upload.  When I get back home, I'll oblige.

 

Anyway, I've noticed that you can't help but eat light meals at altitude. I sit at the table totally hungry and after a couple of mouthfuls, feel totally full.  It's really bizarre actually.  Anyway, we went to an expat Melbourne born Aussie´s restaurant which is a fusion of Australian and Peruvian food (Two Nations.. worth a look if you are in town) and then took a slow stroll back to our hotel.

The usual Christ on a Hill

The next morning, we meet the rest of the group.  Another ten folks join our little herd and I think its going to be a fun group.  Lots of laughs and everyone seems to get on well.

Catch ya later!

POSTSCRIPT: Whether you believe or not, I thought I'd share an interesting photo I took near the back of the Cusco Cathedral.  It is full of either spirit orbs or reflections, you can make up your mind.  A couple of facts about the picture.  It was taken without a flash and the next photo I took seconds later with a flash has none of the orbs in it nor was the lens dirty and there doesn't appear to be anything in each spot to cause the reflections...

Orbs or what?

Next picture I took without a flash seconds later

Just saying folks... just saying...